January 26, 2014
We are off on another RV adventure, this time we are
staying ‘on the continent’ visiting Spain and Portugal. We have been in Spain
before but never Portugal.
We left the house at 11h which was an hour plus later than
we had anticipated. Brian has faithfully started the RV every few weeks and
checked all the systems and had the oil and filter changed last week. So, it
was quite depressing when it wouldn’t turn over. He gave it a boost and we were
on our way.
The weather was atrocious. It rained for kilometers on
end. Our destination was Zarautz which is high up the mountains only 345 kms
from our house.
It was obvious by the fields that have turned into lakes
and by the Charante River, which is almost overflowing her banks in places, that just as
much rain has fallen south of us.
The wind turbines were partially covered with cloud and mist with only
two arms visible at a time created quite the illusion.
We crossed the Dordogne River north of Bordeaux (region of
Aquitaine) and it appeared an eerie white as so much mud has been churned up
South of Bordeaux is logging country; mainly pine trees. Continuing
south into the Landes Region the terrain becomes very flat with areas of
sparse, tall, skinny pine trees that from a distance, with only the blue sky
behind them, their silhouettes could be mistaken for the moppy heads of palm
trees. Further south around Bayonne it became hillier, dense trees and curvy roads which reminded me of New England. In the distance we could see the Pyrenees which separate France from Spain.
The Spanish toll road money taker was not the least bit friendly. It was pissing rain. La bienvenida a España!
We had
joined ASCI which provided a book with 1600
campsites in Europe. It gives all the required information including directions
to the parks. We followed the directions to the one in Zarautz but we never did
find it. I even put in the GPS co-ordinates and that took us to a toll road
where we asked the money taker if we were heading in the right direction -
NO señor! He kindly returned our money, had the two cars behind us
reverse, guided us back and waved goodbye. Most commendable behavior - Gracias señor! There was
another campsite listed and we found it but the office was not open. It was
after 6 pm.
Fortunately, it was a big complex with holiday apartments, hotel, restaurant and bar on the oceanfront. We drew up behind the hotel's well lighted parking lot and walked to the bar for much need refreshment and a bit of WIFI. I went to Google Maps to have proper directions to the next night's campsite in Salamanca. Returning to the RV Brian tried to start the engine - NO! Would not even turn over - dead battery. We felt quite safe and so, we watched a movie until the battery of the computer died too.
It rained most of the night. At 8 a.m. Brian went to the hotel
and asked the receptionist to call a garage. It was not open. Maybe 9 o'clock. (The story of Carlos and the battery, written by Brian is at the bottom of this post.)
While Brian was out buying the battery and while the sun was shining I had a walk down to the oceanfront. I have never seen weather change so dramatically but I suppose the ocean and the mountains which reach down to it affect the patterns in strange ways.
Same scene photographed five minutes apart - scary!
As we didn't leave til after 11 again, we only made it as far as Burgos with its world renowned cathedral, which we sadly only saw from the highway. The campsite, Fuentes Blancas, was well signposted and we arrived without incident.
When we went to the restaurant for dinner we were the only dining customers and the owner asked if we minded sitting in the bar as he was by himself. We of course said no. The bar was crowded with seniors playing cards, drinking coffee or wine.
We felt quite spoiled when the very kind owner set the table with a linen cover and napkins. Brian had hearty chicken soup and I had a crisp, cold delicious salad to start then we each had a roasted chicken leg and frites - delicioso! The total cost was €23 ($29) and that included two coca colas and a bottle of red wine (the remainder of which we were able to take with us). Restaurant closed on Mondays.
We felt quite spoiled when the very kind owner set the table with a linen cover and napkins. Brian had hearty chicken soup and I had a crisp, cold delicious salad to start then we each had a roasted chicken leg and frites - delicioso! The total cost was €23 ($29) and that included two coca colas and a bottle of red wine (the remainder of which we were able to take with us). Restaurant closed on Mondays.
The weather continued to change frequently. It is difficult to take photos while moving but much more so when it is lashing down too. A few shots I managed to capture:
By Brian:
The Story of Carlos and The Battery
When we were stranded behind the hotel in Zarautz in Basque country Spain, I asked the hotel receptionist if he would call a garage to come and give the RV a boost. He asked me to stand outside as in 5 minutes the garage truck would be arriving. After 40 minutes no garage truck but Carlos the hotel handyman, plumber by trade and practicing mechanic arrived and offered to help – after he had his shot of coffee. The battery proved to be dead so he called around and found one three villages away. He took a photo with his smart phone to ensure the correct one was purchased. We returned in 40 minutes with the new (heavy) battery that Carlos installed back into the wiring harness in the explosion proof container under the driver’s seat. Most of this was accomplished in the pouring rain and, from start to finish, it took a total of two hours. After all of this effort he was not enthusiastic about accepting the compensation that I eventually pressed upon him and even, as this was financially a good deal for us, tried to return some of the Euros. He is the father of three so I said buy them something. I don’t know if the Spanish have a term for ‘salt of the earth’ but if they do they should post a picture of Carlos beside it.
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